Hello

This page is dedicated to providing instructions on how to sew your own washable pads.  The design is based on the pads I have been manufacturing and selling for almost 13 years now.  They have been redesigned several times over the past years to provide maximum effectiveness and ease of use.  Give them a try, make as many as you want - use them!...give them as gifts!..most importantly, have fun!!!   The more cloth pads out there the better for the health of women and our planet!

Janet Trenaman
Owner - Many Moons Alternatives

PS - If you find this page useful, and you have your own WEB site, I sure would appreciate it if you would consider providing a link to this page.  If you do not have a  WEB page but would like to help out, tell somebody else about this site.
 

I get lots of requests for patterns for pads and questions on how to make pads.  Pads are pretty straight forward to make if you have sewn before and have a decent sewing machine (and the time).  A machine that will serge is nice to do finishing but is not required.

These pads are based on the design of our "classic" Many Moons, which we sold for almost thirteen years. (We do not have a pattern available for our newest design.) Many Moons style pads are a two part winged design - a pad pocket and the inner liner  - this helps increase absorbency and provides for easy washing and fast drying - (there is nothing worse then pads that do not get fully clean or dry completely).  The wing part of the pad fastens around your underwear.  The flannel backing keeps them in place against your underwear.  They have undergone numerous changes to make them as useful and easy to use a possible.  Hopefully this means that if you go to the time and expense of making the pads they will provide you with an excellent alternative to disposables!   These pads should last you at least 4 or 5 years - although I have some women whose pads have lasted up to 8 years

The size provided here is for the regular and mini pads, like the regular pad shown below.

Excuse the illustrations, they are a bit of a disaster as I hand drew them by hand, but hopefully they are clear enough to understand what is required.  The patterns are scanned in from my pattern templates.

My advice would be to practice on some scrap material for one or two pads.  The exact location of the pocket opening makes a real difference in the functionality of the pad.

Materials

Cotton - Cotton is the best choice for the pad and liner.  I find flannel by far the best material as it is very absorbent without being too thick.  People have used terry cloth as well but I find it tends to get pretty thick with all the layers.  A six once cotton is a good choice - this is slightly heavier than flannel bedding sheet cotton, it is similar in weight to a cotton shirt.  A set of 8 pads will require about 3 yards of materials.  You can use ordinary cotton or if you want a truly deluxe pad you can use organic cotton.  I would of course be pleased to sell you organic flannel if you cannot find a local source, check here.

Nylon -  Nylon is used as a moisture barrier on the outer side of the pad.  It is optional - pads can be made without nylon,  (for example all the organic pads I sell are made without the liner)  you just have to be sure to check and change them more often to avoid any leakage.  Only a small amount of nylon is needed for each pad - about 4 inches wide by the length of the pad.  Use good quality nylon otherwise it will not provide a moisture barrier for more then a few washings - cheap nylon loses this ability after a few washings.  Some women have tried GoreTex but I find it to be overkill, especially given the extra cost.

Snaps - You will also need snaps to use to keep the pads fastened around your underwear.  DO NOT use fuzzy type material fastening tape (I can't use the common name for it, it begins with a "V", or I will get letters from the manufacturer) as a fastener, as this can cause chaffing!   I have never tried using a button but this may also work

Steps

1) Cut out the patterns. There are three parts to the pad pockets - the big winged form is the pad back and will be the template that you sew to.  The pattern I have provided is for the mini/regular sized pad.  The two smaller half winged forms are the pad top and provide the opening through which the liner is inserted.  The patterns are at the end of these instructions.  Cut them out and play with them a bit to see how they fit together.  Doing a trial pad is highly recommended as you may want to modify for size and shape to suit your own needs.

2) Cut a piece of nylon four inches wide and as long as the pad.

3) Serge both inner edges of the pad top (the orange dotted lines on the illustration).

4)   Fold the inner edges over about 1/2 inch and press with an iron so they will hold their form.

5) Lay the materials down in this order;

• nylon liner
• large single pad back
• two top pad pieces with the inside edges overlapping about 3/4 inch.  This provides the access to insert the liner.

6) Sew around the pad about 1/8th inch in from the edge.

7) The pad is now sewn inside out, you will need to flip the pad (just as if you were sewing a pillow and flipping it inside out).  To get nice sharp corners on the pad you should poke the corners out (a chop stick is excellent for this job).  If you don't do this, the pads end up with little bunches of material at each corner.

8) Press the pad with a hot iron (not too hot or you'll burn the nylon)

9) Sew around the top of the pad opening to close off the winged part of the pad from the pocket (red dotted lines).  This is necessary as it helps the pad keep its shape. Also note the black dots are about where the snaps should go.

10) Press snaps on the pad pocket.

11) Cut the liner size required. Regular are about 17 inches by 7 inches, mini are about 9 by 7.   Serge around it.  Fold it up and insert in the pocket.

12) Done!!!

Care and Washing

Wash your pads before their first use - this increases absorbency.

After use, separate the two parts, soak them in cool water and rinse.  Then throw in the wash.  Machine dry or hang to dry.  Iron if you want.  Then they are ready to go again!!

If you soak them in cool water you will find staining to be minimal or nil.

Patterns - below are the patterns. click on each of the image files (there are three separate files) and print off the file. Then hit your return button to get back here.
 
 

Image 1: Bottom Pattern

Image 2: Small top part

Image 3: Large top part